The Brassiere: A Symbol of Femininity and Style
It serves as an ally to femininity. A symbol of courage and emancipation. The brassiere has been an integral part of our daily lives, but its history stretches back to ancient times, shaped by the struggles of courageous women and the evolution of style.
The earliest traces of bra-like garments can be found in ancient Greece and the Roman Empire, where women would tightly bind their chests to maintain a stable position during physical activities. Over the following centuries, women would alternate between desiring modesty and expressing their femininity through clothing, until the emergence of Caresse Crosby, also known as Mary Phelps Jacob. In November of 1912, she introduced the first prototype of the brassiere, marking the beginnings of lingerie. With the use of two handkerchiefs and a delicate pink ribbon, the bra underwent a transformative evolution, becoming a sensuous garment. It was intended to be worn with various outfits, reflecting the freedom of choice in female attire.
The Exposed Brassiere
Dolce&Gabbana has always stood out for its unpredictable nature, its ability to set trends and bring bold, innovative details to the table, and the exposed bra is confirmation of this.
Known to have been the dominant garment in several collections, it first appears in the ‘Sicily’ collection of SS 1987/88, then reappearing ‘The Leopard’ collection of FW 1988, and ‘La Targa Florio’ of SS 1989, and finally in the ‘Hollywood Glamour’ collection of SS 1995, when the brassiere was accentuated becoming a brand detail on models like Kate Moss, Naomi Campbell, Brooke Shields and many more. It is part of the brand’s DNA.
Black. Sensual. Elegant.
The specific black, all covering, austere but sexy brassiere represents women’s empowerment through femeninity. It is meant to make women feel comfortable in their own skin and confident with their sexuality. For Dolce&Gabbana, the brassiere is a memory of female support that any girl and woman, regardless of their background, can recognize as their own. Domenico Dolce is inspired by the memories of his mother when he was younger, by what she used to wear in their home. For this reason, he explains that they created a “corrective brassiere”, the brassiere of our mothers. I grew up watching my mother walk around the house in her brassiere and undergarments.” The true essence of a woman goes beyond mere appearances, as what is hidden beneath the surface is what trully makes one feel whole with herself. And as a result, the bra has evolved into the largest Docle&Gabbana fashion quotation, one that should always be flaunted and shown. For the brand, a woman’s genuine essence is not always apparent, and what lies under the surface is what truly makes a woman feel whole in herself. The ideal illustration of this is the bra.
“The brassiere is the symbol of extreme femininity. Of maternity, of sexuality and sensuality. For us the breast needs to be held and protected, we’ve never loved the bare breast.”
Domenico Dolce, 2022
Through the years, the brassiere has become a way to not only sculp the breasts, but also an element to play on the natural sexy attitude that every woman posseses. As Domenico Dolce explains it, today’s fashion is fifty percent attitude; what makes you feel attractive, modern, or intriguing is all attitude. Dolce&Gabbana adores a seductive and daring attitude, and what better way to convey this than via the power of the brassiere?
Dolce&Gabbana’s SS23 Collection with Kim Kardashian, retraces several details that go back to the origins of the brand, such as the concept of “Divas” and “La Dolce Vita”. More so, Kim Dolce&Gabbana Collection contains distinct styles of the brassiere by the use of crystal mesh, leopard print, and other garments that also accentuate the beauty and power of feminine beauty. The designers collaborated with Kim to produce a one-of-a-kind collection that highlighted the brand’s roots and DNA by projecting old archival pieces and expressing them in a contemporary way. This collection shows how a fashion brand, which stands out for its ability to constantly surprise with modern and contemporary designed garments, can never be obsolete, just like the iconic “brassiere.”
