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Dolce&Gabbana celebrates Leonardo da Vinci by launching a new “Manifattura italiana” timepiece, with the exclusive caliber DG 01.05 movement, assembled by hand by master watchmakers in Geneva. Over the course of his life, Leonardo never built a clock. Yet many of his notes and drawings collected in the “Codex Atlanticus” at the Veneranda Biblioteca Ambrosiana tell of his passion for instruments of astronomy and the measurement of time. In particular, the Clock Tower of the Abbey of Chiaravalle near Milan, built in 1368 and destroyed in 1592, was studied at length by the genius of the Renaissance. Fascinated by the complexity of its mechanisms, the peerless master attempted to improve them with the introduction of a worm drive, a gear that would allow him to reduce the number of wheels.

After five centuries of relative obscurity, with the creation of the “Leonardo” timepiece, Dolce&Gabbana has brought to light the main features of the extraordinary Chiaravalle clock, the subject of intense scientific speculation by Da Vinci:  the main dial reproduces a drawing of Leonardo’s from the “Codex Atlanticus”, demonstrating his exceptional qualities as a mechanical engineer.  The 24-hour complication, historically associated with the so-called “hora italica”, and the addition of a “perpetual” helical gear that determines its movement, also pay homage to that unique system for measuring time and to the universal genius of the 16th century. Not to mention the secondary complication of the moon phases, which not only reinterpret the complex astronomical dial of the Abbey, but also evoke, along with the blue sapphire set in the crown, the avant-garde insights of the great master’s studies of the sky, the stars and the moon. The culture, art and Beauty of Italy have not only inspired the design of this timepiece but have also determined the beautiful engravings of the case, entirely executed by hand by the finest Italian goldsmiths.  However, without the technical virtuosity of the Swiss movement, the new watch would never have seen the light of day, because it is only by combining tradition and innovation, creativity and precision that the masterpiece “Leonardo” was able to take shape.

“Leonardo”
With Dolce&Gabbana 12 – 24- Hour Movement and Moon Phases

Dial

 

Pink gold with roman markers for the 12 hours and 24-hour counter, functioning with “helicoidal” transmission

Moon phases: at 6 o’clock

Hands: pink gold-plated dauphine

Strap: brown alligator

Deployant clasp: pink gold

Case

Material: pink gold

Size: 45 mm diameter

Glass: convex “sapphire”

Clasp: with safety closure and five lateral screws

Crown: in pink gold set with 1 blue sapphire

 

Movement DG 01.05

Automatic caliber with classic escapement

12-hour dial, 24-hour counter and moon phases

General Information

 

Diameter: 36 mm

Height: 6.30 mm

Number of components: 289

Number of rubies: 38

Movement type: automatic – self-winding

Power reserve: 55 hours (tolerance 0/-3 hours)

Frequency: 21,600 vibrations per hour (3 Hz)

 

Technical Data

Constant force M0: 380 g*mm

Barrel wheel total revolution: 12.2 revolution

Barrel wheel revolution per hour: 5.15 revolution

Mainspring type: slipping bridle

Spiral type: flat spiral

Balance wheel type: balance wheel

with gold micro mass weights, variable inertia

Escapement wheel: 15 teeth

Balance wheel inertia: 10.00 mg.cm2

Lift angle: 46°

Caliber weight: 28.02 grams

Rotor material: sintered metal made of tungsten carbide

Rotor weight: 2.70 grams

 

 

To learn more about the entire Dolce&Gabbana Alta Orologeria Collection please contact us at altagioielleria@dolcegabbana.it

 

 

 

“Making of” images and still life photos

Massimo Bianchi

“Chiaravalle” Astronomical ‘Tower Clock’

Atlanticus

Federico II